Gavin 'AllDayClassics'

<p>I have put together a tutorial for painting the red armor on this Blood Raven, went a lot heavier on the damage than normal, but hey that's part of the fun.<br><br>Notes: When referring to glazing, this just means that you want to add enough airbrush thinner to your paint so that you are still able to see some of the underlying paint. This also helps to eliminate those tiny dots that you may often see on airbrushed models. Generally, if you are having trouble with the paint splattering or clogging, add more airbrush thinner. If you are having issues with 'spidering', add more paint or reduce the air pressure.</p>

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Worn Red Armo

Airbrush: Pre-shade with white on black primer, highlighting the volumes of the model. Optionally, use agrax earthshade in the shadows.


Vallejo Black Primer

Vallejo Model Color White

Citadel  Agrax Earthshade

Airbrush: Heavy glaze layer with GW Word Bearer Red all over the model. Try to leave the shadows fairly dark. This is easy to correct in step 5 if you go too far.


Citadel Word Bearers Red

Airbrush: Add VMC Sunny Skintone to GW Word Bearers Red, and highlight again. Use the pre-shade as your template.


Vallejo Model Color Sunny Skintone

Airbrush: Add White to the mix and highlight again. Focus only on the brightest areas.


Airbrush: Combine GW Gal Vorbak Red and Black Ink in a light glaze consistency, and focus on spraying the shadows and a small amount of the midtone. Avoid the highlights.


Vallejo Game Color Smokey Ink

Citadel Gal Vorbak Red 

Combine Word Bearers Red, VMA Hot Orange, and VMC Sunny Skintone in a light glaze consistency and spay the midtones and highlights.  
Note: I sprayed the model with Ultra Matte Varnish after each step. You may notice your model is somewhat glossy without this, but you only really need it at the end of the process/ before the metallics.


Vallejo Game Air Hot Orange

In this step I used Windsor and Newton Lamp Black Oil paint, Low Odor white spirits thinner, Makeup Sponges. Combine Lamp Black, from Windsor and Newton Artist Oil Colors, and Low Odor White Spirits Thinner to create an oil wash. You should only need a few drop of thinner, and a small amount of paint for even a large number of model. You can test this consistency on a piece of slightly crumpled tin foil, where the mixture should seek out all of the recesses, while leaving the open areas clean. Use a fine tipped brush (don't use your good brushes for this) to pin wash this into every recess of the armor. Don't worry too much about making a mess at this point, but try to avoid an all-over wash. You can also use white spirits to clean out your brush. You can also use Black Contrast paint thinned down with Contrast Medium.




Citadel Contrast Black Templar

Citadel Contrast Medium

Once dry (about an hour), use a q-tip or make-up sponge to wipe away the excess oil paint. You can tell the paint is dry once it goes from glossy to a matte finish. Don't wait too long, though, since it will start to stain after a while.




Edge Highlight with a 1:1 mix of Word Bearers Red and Vallejo Sunny Skintone. Don't worry about highlighting every single edge; just hit the most prominent ones.




Dip a piece of pluck foam into some slightly thinned Rhinox Hide, and blot most of the paint off onto a paper towel, or the back of your hand before gently pressing it onto the surface and edges of the model. You will know it's good to use once the paint somewhat struggles to leave the sponge. Using tweezers to hold the foam also helps to reach difficult areas.


Citadel Rhinox Hide

You will know it's good to use once the paint somewhat struggles to leave the sponge.




Dip a piece of pluck foam into some slightly thinned Rhinox Hide, and blot most of the paint off onto a paper towel, or the back of your hand before gently pressing it onto the surface and edges of the model. You will know it's good to use once the paint somewhat struggles to leave the sponge. Using tweezers to hold the foam also helps to reach difficult areas.




Using the mix 1:1 mix of Word Bearers Red and Vallejo Sunny Skintone, apply tiny scratches and dings across the model. You can use Rhinox Hide to make some of the damage larger in order to highlight and create bigger scratches. Also, varnish the model with Ultra Matte Varnish before the next step to get rid of any glossy finish without dulling the metallics (can be done with brush or airbrush).


I've included a few examples and close ups of how I refine the basework from the sponge chipping to create more defined wear and tear.


Lastly, I've included a photo of all paints used for the tutorial. Thanks for sticking around to read this far!


Along edges that were covered by the Rhinox Hide in step 1, Use a fine tipped brush to paint a bright silver metallic highlight. I used Scale 75 Heavy Metal, but any bright silver will work. Try to avoid a straight line as your highlight and instead aim for tiny dots and dashes along these edges.


Tutorial

Worn Red Armo

Tutorial steps archived

End of tutorial