Thirty Five Oldbrush

<p>NB instructions for the airbrush: I used an iwata hp-cs 0.35 at 1.8-2 bar with milk consistency dilution for colors ... for the smallest details I tend to go down a little with the pressure at 1.5 bar.</p>

small_blob

thumbnail_blob

High Contrast Dreadnought

After assembling (1)the model I passed a black Vallejio primer and then a Imperial blue over the entire surface to get a really dark tone(2).


Vallejo Imperial Blue

In photo 3 you can see how I worked on the gradient starting from a darker blue Imperial blue, Magic Blue, Electric Blue up to the Gost Grey.


Vallejo Magic Blue

Vallejo Game Color Electric Blue

Vallejo Game Color Ghost Grey

In photos 2 and 4 you can see how I applied the masking tape and the masking paste in order to work as accurately as possible.(tamya model tape mask and greenstuffworld black putty mask).  
2 important tricks: sometimes to improve the blendig I add a few drops of vallejo medium glaze which delays drying and improves the fluidity of the pigment especially through the airbrush. Sometimes we have to intensify the colors by adding a darker haze that increases the contrast for this I used very diluted black.  



Vallejo Model Color Black

After assembling the piece with blue paste I realized that I wanted more saturation in the mid tone so I intensified it with some glazes of Electric Blue.  



Same as step 5: After assembling the piece with blue paste I realized that I wanted more saturation in the mid tone so I intensified it with some glazes of Electric Blue.  



Silver NMM: the silver NMM maybe is the simplest NMM to make because it only needs black and white to create all the shades useful to achieve the desired effect. The trick is always to sketch the lights and follow the shape of the object you are painting.  



Vallejo Model Color White

Same as step 7: The silver NMM maybe is the simplest NMM to make because it only needs black and white to create all the shades useful to achieve the desired effect. The trick is always to sketch the lights and follow the shape of the object you are painting.  



My palette is a dark brown 1 Flat Eart plus a bit of Black -2 pure Flat Eart -3 Golden Brown -4 Off White. The golden effect is more complex and requires a little more training. Basically I use the palette I wrote above but you can get colder or warmer mood depending on the proportions we use of the single colors and the intermediate shades that we can obtain with the same colors by mixing them together.


Vallejo Model Color Flat Earth

Vallejo Model Color Goldbrown

Vallejo Model Color Off White

My palette is -1 a dark brown Flat Eart plus a bit of Black -2 pure Flat Eart -3 Golden Brown -4 Off White the golden effect is more complex and requires a little more training ... basically I use the palette I wrote above but you can get colder or warmer mood depending on the proportions we use of the single colors and the intermediate shades that we can obtain with the same colors by mixing them together.


In this step you can see how I simply obtained a lighting effect by simply using 2 colors a bright red and yellow any brand will be fine. Obviously in the highlights we can add to the yellow a bit of white and vice versa black in the shadows.


Vallejo Model Color Vermillion

Scalecolor Sol Yellow

in step 12, 13, 14 and 15 you can see the final result . I have selected some details to show you how all the steps made so far can be modified and improved by adding definition with the edge highlight, more smotness by correcting the gradients with light shades of color the patience is the only ally do not be afraid of making mistakes nothing is irrecoverable.  



Initially i wanted to create a perfect space station as it was just manufactured. Then i thought of increasing the visual contrast of my Dreadnought by placing it on a completely destroyed base. This has generated controversial opinions, but i believe the final effect is as strong as the I figured.  
  
To create the base I used an old scenographic container found in Conquest magazine plus included objects.  



To connect the two containers parts I recreated the effect of a grate where current wires pass  
underneath. In my local store I found a kitchen worktop passer that was right for me whilethe wires are the inner part of a lan cable. I used a 5mm plasticboard for the base plate and some connecting moldings.


Over a Black base I started to highlight all the raised and non-raised parts to create a base texture with Off White.


Over a Black base I started to highlight all the raised and non-raised parts to create a base texture with off White.


To achieve very fast and natural looking aging effects, oil colors are the best choice.  
The compounds I used were all made with main colors, adjusting the Hue and saturation step by step.  
You need: Ultramarine blue, a lemon yellow, a dark forest green, an ocher, a cadmium red, a black and a titanium white. And White Spirit solvent I simply recreated 3 fundamental tones  
1 a rusty orange with yellow red desaturated with white.  
2 a very desaturated blue green due to the oxide effect  
3 white for some worn spots  
  



Abteilung 502 Black Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Green Grass Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Intense Blue Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Metallic Silver Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Ocher Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Starship Filth Modeling Oil Color

Abteilung 502 Yellow Modeling Oil Color

Final result to which I added a little red oxide pigment by vallejo in a very casual way.  
The terminal that I added in this photo I removed from diorama at the end.  



Tutorial

High Contrast Dreadnought

Tutorial steps archived

End of tutorial